Suzi 17/05/06

Have just had probably the best 3 days of our trip so far. We have now reached as far as Mongolia on the Trans-Siberian (after a really enjoyable family stay in Ulan Ude we over-nighted on the train to Ulan Baater, taking a total of 9 hours to cross the border, a relic of over-zealous Communist form-filling times on both sides!). Sad in some ways to leave Russia but Mongolia is great, the people are so friendly and you really get the feeling tourists are still somewhat of an oddity, which is not the case in many of our other destinations.

We arrived early in the morning and were transferred to Elstei Ger Camp, on the edge of the Gobi desert, about 70km from Ulan Baater. Was absolutely fantastic! The camp comprises a total of 15 gers, each sleeping four people, although it's not high season at the moment so Thorsten and I had a ger to ourselves. The gers are 100% authentic (we visited a local nomad family who work at the camp and their ger was exactly the same but minus certain comforts like a duvet) but the camp is like a very small tourist resort, with a shower block and restaurant as all meals are included in the stay. The boys actually watched the chef slaughtering the sheep which he then barbecued and served us for dinner on our final night!

It was just amazing being so far from everything. When we looked out of our door in the morning all we could see was the steppe in one direction and the desert in the other. Was really bleak but really beautiful at the same time and we even experienced a small sand storm! AND, now for the best bet, although most of you may not believe this, Thorsten went horse riding! Yes, despite years of protesting, he gave in and we went for a trek on the camp's Mongolian horses. They are really tiny but incredibly strong and was really good fun. Thorsten even cantered, which was pretty good going for his first time on a horse ever (although not through choice I have to add!!).

We're enjoying Ulan Baater at the moment and leave for Beijing in the morning. We have heard from other travellers that Internet is difficult to find in China as it is officially banned so may not be in touch for a while but will do our best to update you again soon.

Mumpsy, Happy Birthday for next Wednesday, hope you have a fabulous day!